The difference between natural and synthetic fragrances

‘Perfume is the most intense form of memory.’ - Jean Paul Guerlain.

But how are these memorable fragrances actually created? And more importantly, which fragrances are really in our favourite perfumes?

In modern perfumery, centuries-old craftsmanship meets modern science. Opinions differ between natural ingredients and synthetic molecules - but both have their place. In this article, we clarify in a well-founded, understandable and honest way: What is the real difference between natural and synthetic fragrances?

The basics of fragrances: natural and synthetic fragrances

Fragrances are chemical compounds with a specific odour. They interact with the olfactory cells in the nose and generate stimuli that our brain interprets as ‘odour’. These compounds either come from natural sources or are produced artificially. Both forms have been used in perfumery for centuries - today they are often even combined.

Natural fragrances are obtained from plants or animal raw materials. They are considered by many to be particularly ‘pure’ or ‘honest’. Well-known examples are rose oil, patchouli, neroli or sandalwood.

They are usually obtained by:

• Steam distillation - classic for lavender, peppermint, rosemary
• Cold pressing - typically for citrus peels such as bergamot, lemon or orange
• Solvent extraction - necessary for sensitive flowers such as jasmine or tuberose

These extracts are highly complex - they sometimes contain hundreds of different fragrance molecules. This makes them lively, but also difficult to control. The fragrance can change slightly depending on the climate, soil or time of harvest. More on perfume development and its various methods can be found in our blog here.

A synthetic fragrance is created in the laboratory. There, either nature-identical molecules are recreated or completely new fragrances are developed that do not exist in nature - such as ozone tones or metallic accords. There are four main types of synthetic fragrances:

These four types are the most common:

• nature-identical: the molecule corresponds exactly to a naturally occurring substance (e.g. vanillin from vanilla).
• semi-synthetic: the basic substance is derived from nature but is chemically modified (e.g. linalyl acetate from lavender).
• fully synthetic: the fragrance has no natural model - e.g. calone, which is used for aquatic fragrances.
• isolates: individual molecules are isolated from natural extracts (e.g. geraniol from rose oil).

These fragrances can be controlled, standardised and open up creative possibilities that would not be possible with natural raw materials alone. If you want to know more about fragrance families or types of notes, you can follow our respective blogs.

Comparison of natural vs. synthetic

Fragrance effect and character

Natural ingredients offer depth and complexity. Their fragrance often develops on the skin in a multi-faceted way - almost like a living being. A rose never smells exactly the same - and that is part of its charm.

Synthetic molecules score with precision and clarity. They make it possible to create accords that always smell the same - a huge advantage for brands with a consistent fragrance experience. They can also be used to create odour notes that do not exist in nature - such as ozony, metallic or leathery tones.

Example: Iso E Super is a famous molecule that has a woody, warm yet transparent effect - an effect that is almost impossible to achieve with natural substances.

Allergy risk and tolerance

Many people think: natural = better tolerated. However, natural fragrances in particular often contain allergenic components - such as limonene, eugenol or cinnamal.

These can cause irritation or aggravate allergies in sensitive skin - especially when exposed to direct sunlight (phototoxic reactions).

Synthetic fragrances can be more specifically controlled and purified. Many modern formulas are deliberately designed for allergy sufferers. Those who are particularly sensitive should opt for products without declarable allergens or choose fragrance-free cosmetics. 

Find out more about fragrance allergens here.

Sustainability and ethics

The extraction of natural raw materials can be very resource-intensive, depending on how they are grown. Around 4 million flowers are needed for 1 kg of rose oil. The deforestation of woods (e.g. sandalwood) or the keeping of animals for fragrances such as musk must also be viewed critically.

Synthetic molecules make it possible to reproduce these substances without jeopardising rare plant species or animals. In addition, energy and water consumption can usually be controlled much better in the laboratory. Many synthetic fragrances are vegan and do not contain any animal ingredients - an ethical advantage for conscious consumers.

Ultimately, however, the environmental footprint depends on the entire manufacturing process - not just the origin of the fragrance.

Price and shelf life

The cost of natural fragrances is high. A kilo of genuine jasmine absolute can cost several thousand euros. What's more: Natural substances are often less stable. They react sensitively to air, light and heat - which can be noticeable both in the bottle and on the skin. To discover the rarest and most expensive ingredients, have a look at this post.

Synthetic fragrances are usually cheaper to produce and much more durable. In combination with alcohol, the carrier substance of almost all perfumes, their chemical structure ensures a longer shelf life - both in the bottle and on the skin.

This means that the fragrance stays fresh for longer, does not lose its intensity as quickly and oxidises more slowly. This is a clear advantage, especially in summer or for long days.

Conclusion

Whether natural or synthetic - fragrances are fascinating and diverse. Both worlds have their advantages. Natural ingredients impress with their complexity and authenticity, synthetic molecules with their innovation, stability and sustainability.

What counts in the end: What suits your style, your skin type, your requirements? If you value naturalness, you should consciously consider the origin and processing. Those with sensitive skin can switch to low-allergen or fragrance-free fragrances.

At L'Art Vévien, we don't believe in either-or. We believe in quality, transparency - and in the power of each individual fragrance to convey a feeling.